Have you ever spent hours layering a rose petal, only for it to look muddy and streaky? Or struggled to draw the fine detail of an eye because your pencil point keeps crumbling?
I’ve been there. Often, the frustration isn’t your technique—it’s simply using the wrong type of pencil for the job.
The secret lies in the binder. Some pencils glide like butter (perfect for soft blending), while others hold a razor-sharp point (essential for intricate detail). Understanding the difference between wax-based and oil-based pencils is the quickest way to move from a frustrating struggle to confident creation.
In this guide, I’ll share behind-the-scenes secrets I’ve learned from manufacturers like Caran d’Ache to help you match the right pencil to your goals—whether that’s a smooth portrait background or every fine whisker on a pet's face.
Let’s start with a peek inside the pencil to see why they behave the way they do...
Every pencil is a recipe of three ingredients: Pigments for color, Binders (wax or oil) to hold it together, and Fillers for strength. The "feel" of a pencil depends entirely on how the manufacturer mixes these.
To illustrate this, Caran d’Ache shared with us the different ways they create two of their most famous pencils:
1. The Wax-Based "Soaking" Process (Pablo)
In this method, the leads are made first and then soaked in wax. This results in a lead with a medium hardness that resists "wax bloom."
The process is what we call the non direct process. Leads are made of powders (pigments, of course, talcum and clay) and binders (always 2 kind of binders - gums). The leads are first extruded, dried for 8 hours and then soaked in molten waxes for 24 hours (like chips).
This is the non direct way to impregnate the leads with wax. In this case, the content of waxes is less than 10% of the total weight of the lead.
The low level of wax in the final pencil means that there will be a medium hardness in the 'touch' as the pencil is applied to the paper. A further benefit is that this will be unlikely to produce a wax bloom in the final artwork.
2. The Oil-Based "Direct" Process (Luminance)
Here, the waxes and oils are mixed directly into the lead "dough" before it is shaped. This creates a much softer, more buttery feel.
LUMINANCE is a mainly oil based and direct pencil. Leads are made of powders, waxes, and hydrogenated oil (solid, not liquid), and natural organic binder (gum). The leads are first extruded, then dried during 8 hours and then stay in stock during 2 months before being used to make the pencils.
Direct, in this case, mean that the waxes (and oil) are directly incorporate in the recipe. Leads are not soaked. In this case, the content of waxes is less than 30% of the total weight of the lead.
The higher percentage of waxes and oils gives the softer feel to the pencils, the higher oil content gives the protection against blooming.
If one manufacturer can create such different pencils, how do you choose the right one for your style? Here is the framework I use to match the pencil to the goal.
The Visual Result
Soft, painterly and dreamy
Crisp, sharp and highly detailed
Best Subjects
Portraits, soft skin, and skies
Animal fur, botanicals, and architecture.
Core Strength
Fast color buildup and "buttery" blending.
Holding a sharp point and endless layering.
The "Feel"
Glides effortlessly across the paper.
Offers more resistance and control.
Point Retention
Softer; needs frequent sharpening for detail
Harder; holds a razor-sharp point for longer
Solves This Problem
My colors look streaky or my paper feels scratchy
My details are fuzzy or my points keep crumbling.
The Artist's Secret: You don’t have to choose just one. Many successful pieces use Oil-based pencils for the "sharp" focal points (like eyes and whiskers) and Wax-based pencils for soft, blended backgrounds.
Now that you know which type of pencil you need, let’s look at the brands you’ll actually find in UK shops.
Buyer’s Tip: Not all "artist" pencils are created equal. Cheaper sets often use more fillers (like chalk or clay) and less pigment. If a pencil looks bright in the box but dull on the paper, or feels scratchy to use, it’s usually because of high filler content.
I’ll be honest: there’s a lot of marketing noise. You don’t need the most expensive import to create stunning art, but you do need tools that won't hold you back. Here is my take on the best options available in the UK: Coloured Pencil Brand Guide.
Derwent Coloursoft
Prismacolor Premier
Faber-Castell Polychromos
Caran d'Ache Luminance
Derwent Lightfast
Here's something most articles won't tell you: you can absolutely create impressive, realistic art with mid-range pencils. I've seen students produce museum-quality pet portraits with Derwent Coloursoft and basic Faber-Castell pencils.
The expensive pencils will make certain techniques easier and give you richer colours. But they won't fix fundamental issues like poor proportions, muddy colour mixing, or lack of value contrast.
If you're just beginning your realistic drawing journey, I'd suggest this approach:
This combination gives you experience with both types, costs less than one premium set, and both brands are readily available for replacements.
You'll know you're ready to upgrade when:
Remember: the goal isn't to own the most expensive pencils. It's to create art that fills you with genuine pride.
You’ve finished a piece, stood back to admire it… and noticed a strange, cloudy film dulling your colours. It almost looks like the drawing’s been sneaking snacks from the butter dish. This is wax bloom, and it’s one of the quirks of using soft, wax-rich pencils.
So what causes it?
Caran d’Ache, who know a thing or two about pencils, put it like this:
Blooming appears when you put down heavy layers or the artwork is sensitive to humidity, but it can also be a problem of "bad" formulation. If you mix vinegar and oil, you know what happens ? They can separate.
Archaeologists have found roman coins... and when you analyse these coins, you find that the metals are now separate. The heart is pure silver and external part is pure bronze.
That image of Roman coins slowly separating over centuries might sound dramatic—but it’s a useful analogy. If incompatible waxes are mixed together, they can migrate over time, rising to the surface and creating that cloudy bloom.
As for oil-based pencils?
They’re not entirely immune, but the risk is much lower. Why? Because they typically use hydrogenated oils—a solid, wax-like form of oil that’s more stable:
There is a chemical process which produces a reaction between hydrogen and oil and you get what we call hydrogenated oil, which is solid and looks like a wax. It is this product we also use in LUMINANCE, and the reason why I say that it an oil based pencil.
In short:
Can you fix wax bloom?
Yes! A soft cloth or tissue can gently buff it away. You can also spray a fixative to help prevent it, especially if you’re using lots of layers.
Upgrading to artist-grade pencils makes a noticeable difference - your colors will be more vibrant and your blending smoother. But I learned the hard way that they aren't a magic fix.
Years ago, I invested over £200 in a set of Luminance pencils, convinced they would finally make my art look professional. Instead, the rich pigments only made my shaky proportions and muddy color mixing more obvious.
The truth is, pencils amplify your skill level - they don’t create it. A skilled artist can create stunning work with £2 budget pencils, while the most expensive set in the world won't rescue poor technique.
How do you know when you're actually ready to upgrade? You're ready when you have a specific technical need - like needing more pigment for deep shadows or a pencil that won't break the paper tooth.
The real investment that matters most isn't the wood and wax in your hand; it's the time you spend mastering pressure control, value, and color relationships.
Now that you know how to choose your tools, let’s focus on the skills that actually bring your art to life. Whether you’re using budget pencils or a professional set, here is how to move forward:
The real magic doesn't come from what’s inside the pencil - it comes from the confidence you build through practice.
If you're still feeling unsure about which brands to invest in first, my free guide can help you clarify your priorities before you shop:
"6 Questions to Ask Yourself When Choosing Coloured Pencils"
Got a specific challenge you're stuck on? Drop me a line! I read every email and love turning your questions into new tutorials for our community.
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