Wax vs. Oil-Based Coloured Pencils: Which One is Right for You?

By Carol Leather

Have you ever spent hours layering a rose petal, only for it to look muddy and streaky? Or struggled to draw the fine detail of an eye because your pencil point keeps crumbling?

I've been there. Often, the frustration isn't your technique, it's simply using the wrong type of pencil for the job.

The secret lies in the binder. Some pencils glide like butter (perfect for soft blending), while others hold a razor-sharp point (essential for intricate detail). Understanding the difference between wax-based and oil-based pencils is the quickest way to move from a frustrating struggle to confident creation.

In this guide, I'll share behind-the-scenes secrets I've learned from manufacturers like Caran d'Ache to help you match the right pencil to your goals, whether that's a smooth portrait background or every fine whisker on a pet's face.

Let's start with a peek inside the pencil to see why they behave the way they do.

The Making of a Coloured Pencil

Every pencil is a recipe of three ingredients: pigments for colour, binders (wax or oil) to hold it together, and fillers for strength. The "feel" of a pencil depends entirely on how the manufacturer mixes these.

To illustrate this, Caran d'Ache spoke to Peter Weatherill about the different ways they create two of their most famous pencils:

If one manufacturer can create such different pencils, how do you choose the right one for your style? Here is the framework I use to match the pencil to the goal.

Which Pencil Type Matches Your Goals?

Most coloured pencils contain both waxes and oils in varying proportions. So my advice is to treat wax vs oil as a performance spectrum.

Some 'oil-based' favourites still contain wax. What matters is performance (point, layering, bloom tendency), not the label.

You can see the point-retention difference in a quick test I ran, drawing the same amount with each pencil:

The Supporting Cast: 3 Factors That Change Everything

A pencil doesn't work in a vacuum. To get the best results, you need to match your pencil type to your paper, your sharpener, and your blending style.

1. The surface (paper tooth)

Smooth (hot press) paper: best for oil-based pencils. The smooth surface allows for the extreme detail and sharp lines these pencils excel at.

Textured (cold press) paper: best for wax-based pencils. The "valleys" in the paper grain hold onto the soft wax, allowing for deep, rich colour buildup.

2. The sharpener choice

Handheld sharpeners: great for tough oil-based cores (like Polychromos), but can snap the "buttery" cores of wax pencils.

Crank (helical) sharpeners: a must-have for wax-based pencils (especially Prismacolor). They pull the pencil into the blade evenly, preventing the core from twisting and snapping inside the wood.

3. The blending method

Solvents (Zest-It / mineral spirits): work beautifully with both types of pencil to break down the binder and create a "painted" look.

Burnishing & dry blending: an effective way to blend both types. Use heavy pressure or a colourless blender to "mash" wax layers together.

Best Wax & Oil Coloured Pencils In The UK

Not all "artist" pencils are created equal. Cheaper sets often use more fillers (like chalk) and less pigment, leading to dull, scratchy results. Here are the best options you'll actually find in UK shops.

Options marketed as being wax-based (smooth and blendable)

Derwent Coloursoft

• The lowdown: made in the Lake District; incredibly soft and easy to blend without the "import tax" of US brands.
• Best for: soft portraits and gentle backgrounds.
• Where to buy: widely available at Hobbycraft, Amazon UK, and local shops.

Prismacolor Premier

• The lowdown: the "gold standard" for buttery application, but can be brittle and expensive in the UK due to shipping.
• Best for: when you want that "melts like butter" feel for large areas.
• Where to buy: Jackson's Art or Cult Pens (rarely found in high-street shops).

The "cloudy film" mystery: wax bloom

You'll see a cloudy, white or greyish film appearing over your work. It typically strikes your darkest areas where you have used heavy pressure and many layers. Changes in temperature or humidity usually trigger it.

Don't panic. It hasn't ruined your art. Take a clean, soft cloth or dry tissue and very gently buff the surface of the paper. The cloudiness will disappear and your vibrant colours will return instantly.

• Layer lighter: avoid "smashing" the paper tooth with heavy pressure until the very final stages of your drawing.
• Seal the work: once finished, apply a light coat of artist fixative. This creates a barrier that keeps the wax trapped beneath the surface.
• Go oil-based: if you live in a very humid climate, oil-based pencils are your best defence, as they are virtually immune to blooming.

Need a step-by-step fix? Read the full guide: how to fix and prevent wax bloom.

Options marketed as being oil-based

Many pencils with oil-based binders are reported to reduce the wax bloom risk; exact recipes vary by brand. Personally I have never had a problem with Polychromos pencils.

Faber-Castell Polychromos

• The lowdown: the ultimate "workhorse". They are firm and hold a sharp point for a long time.
• Best for: realistic animal fur, whiskers, and botanical details.
• Where to buy: everywhere, from high-street art shops to Hobbycraft.

Caran d'Ache Luminance

• The lowdown: the "Rolls Royce" of pencils. Although they contain a small percentage of wax as well as oil, they tend to have more protection against blooming than other brands. Their industry-leading lightfastness is a bonus.
• Best for: professional-grade work intended for sale, where long-term stability is vital.
• Where to buy: specialist retailers like Jackson's or Pegasus Art.

Derwent Lightfast

• The lowdown: the UK's premium answer to Luminance. A stable, oil-based core that is much less likely to develop a cloudy film, made right here in the UK.
• Best for: British artists wanting museum-quality lightfastness without the import premiums.
• Where to buy: direct from Derwent, specialist retailers like Jackson's or Cult Pens.

My starter recommendation for UK artists

If you're just beginning your journey, don't buy a massive, expensive set of one brand. Instead, "build your own" versatile kit.

The power duo: get a 24-set of Derwent Coloursoft (for smooth blending) and a 24-set of Faber-Castell Polychromos (for crisp details).

This combination costs less than a single premium set, is easily available in most UK art shops, and gives you the perfect tools to master both wax and oil techniques simultaneously.

Blending & Layering Workflows (Wax Vs Oil)

Choosing the right pencil is only half the battle. Here are the "cheat sheets" I use to get the most out of each type.

These recipes give you the roadmap, but there is one more thing you need to know before you invest in your next set of pencils.

Will Better Pencils Transform Your Art?

With so many great options available in the UK, it's tempting to jump straight to the most expensive "professional" set. But I learned the hard way that they aren't a magic fix.

Years ago, I invested over £200 in a set of Luminance pencils, convinced they would finally make my art look professional. Instead, the rich pigments only made my shaky proportions and muddy colour mixing more obvious.

The truth is, pencils amplify your skill level, they don't create it. A skilled artist can create stunning work with £2 budget pencils, while the most expensive set in the world won't rescue poor technique.

How do you know when you're actually ready to upgrade? Don't do it because you're frustrated; do it when you have a specific technical need. You're ready for premium pencils when:

• You need the highest lightfastness for work you intend to sell.
• Your current pencils physically cannot layer any further without "greasiness" or breaking the paper tooth.
• You've mastered colour mixing and need more complex pigments for subtle skin tones.

The real investment that matters most isn't the wood and wax in your hand; it's the time you spend mastering pressure control, value, and colour relationships.

Your Next Steps: From Understanding to Creating

Now that you know how to choose your tools, let's focus on the skills that actually bring your art to life. Whether you're using budget pencils or a professional set, here is how to move forward:

• The 5-minute comparison test: draw the same simple subject (like a leaf or an apple) twice, once with a wax-based pencil and once with an oil-based one. Pay attention to how the colour builds and which one feels more natural for your style.
• Master pressure control: learn how the weight of your hand creates everything from soft gradients to deep, rich shadows.
• Develop an eye for value: learn to see light and dark accurately so your drawings look three-dimensional rather than flat and lifeless.
• Master smooth blending techniques: learn how to create soft gradients without "pencil lines".
• Understand colour layering: the key to vibrant colours without your work turning "muddy".
• Learn colour mixing on paper: how to create hundreds of shades from just a few pencils.
• Try your first realistic project: put it all together by tackling a simple texture or a beginner-friendly animal portrait.

The real magic doesn't come from what's inside the pencil, it comes from the confidence you build through practice.

If you're still feeling unsure about which brands to invest in first, my free guide can help you clarify your priorities before you shop: "6 Questions to Ask Yourself When Choosing Coloured Pencils".

Got a specific challenge you're stuck on? Drop me a line. I read every email and love turning your questions into new tutorials for our community.

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